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Events:
Read
about my tour of 18th-century Jesuit missions in Central
and Eastern Sonora State, Mexico
On
February 17-21, 2008, I accompanied the Uhagón
family (José Enrique Uhagón Foxá,
his wife Angélica and their son Ricardo Uhagón
Vives) on a tour of the old Jesuit missions in Sonora,
Mexico. This is the family that has owned La Caridad
Monastery (see The Storks of La Caridad and "Sleuthing
for Ignaz") for over a century and a half. Ricardo
Uhagón is interested in making a film not only
of Storks, but also of novels (forthcoming) about Father
Ignaz' service in the Sonora missions. We visited the
central area of missions, including two formerly served
by Father Ignaz (Ygnacio) and many that he must have
known-most of which are now serving as parish churches.
The missions visited included Guevavi, Cucurpe, Ures,
Baviácora, Aconchi, San Felipe, Huépac,
Banámichi and Arizpe (For photos, see "Tour
of 18th-Century Jesuit Missions" under Events
Past, below). We also drove across rugged mountains
to Moctezuma to see the impressive church of Oposura,
returning northward through the copper-mining town of
Cananea, crossing the border at Naco, where there was
NO traffic and we were cleared in minutes. We made a
stop in Tombstone, AZ, where the Uhagóns were
particularly delighted with souvenirs of the OK Corral.
Europeans are true-blue fans of old Hollywood Westerns,
it would seem! Special thanks go to René Córdova,
our chauffeur and guide, who supplied us with all sorts
of information: historical, botanical, political, and
religious. René has an encyclopedic mind and
vast culture.
I attended the High Desert Book Fair in Sierra
Vista on March 15, with time before and after
to visit friends there and in Tucson, and to work in
the Archive of Ethnohistory at the University
of Tucson Library. There, I discovered still more unpublished
letters between 18th-century Jesuit missionaries in
Sonora, a lively correspondence that abruptly ceased
with the Expulsion in 1767.
From
April 3-6 I attended the conference of the Renaissance
Society of America in Chicago, to deliver a paper
on 16th and early 17th-century Jesuit scholastic theater
as foundation for the great French Classical theater
of the 17th century.
Seven
Cities of Mud was officially published on April
15, 2008. Since the book was supposed to have come
out in the fall of 2007, I was able to hold a pre-publication
book signing on December 6, 2007, using advance promotional
copies.
I
spent ten days (April 14-23) on silent retreat
at the Jesuit Spirituality Center at St. Charles College
in Grand Coteau, LA. The Center is beautifully situated,
with two-hundred-year-old live oaks, some at least six
feet in diameter. The grounds are beautiful, planted
with azaleas, camellias, and crepe myrtle. Walkways
and benches afford opportunities for silent contemplation.
May
29-June 1 saw me in El Paso, Texas, lecturing and
signing books (Apache Lance, Franciscan Cross,
The Storks of La Caridad, and Seven Cities
of Mud) at four branch libraries and the central
library. Audiences were receptive and sales were brisk.
I was also able to visit good friends while there-James
and Bobbi Major and Fr. Louis Lambert, S.J., of Sacred
Heart Church.
The
Chama Book Festival took place June 6-8 in Chama,
NM, near the Colorado border, with honored guest John
Nichols (of The Milagro Beanfield War
and much more). John is a delightful person, an excellent
speaker with a wealth of information about the publishing
and film industries. Again, I met many new friends,
visited with old ones, and sold quite a few books.
Four
days after my return from Chama, I drove to Atlanta,
picked up my friend Ralph Freedman, and we spent four
weeks traveling (June 12-July7) spending two
of them in Maine on Mt Desert Island, hiking among mountains
and lakes in Acadia National Park and along the cliff-bound
sea-coast. We also indulged shamelessly in seafood,
caught the same day.
Park
University named me Alumna of the Year. I flew to Kansas
City and was taken from there to Parkville, MO, to spend
Alumni Weekend and to receive the award at a banquet
on June 21. I most warmly thank those who nominated
me and Park University for a memorable occasion. I am
truly honored.
Upcoming
I
plan to travel in the vicinity of San Antonio and perhaps
to New Mexico, Arizona and Colorado to sign and sell
copies of Seven Cities of Mud. These short
trips should take place between July 16 and October.
In
October, from the 13th-18th I will participate
in the online conference for writers, Muse on Line.
On the 24th-26th, the annual Women Writing
the West Conference will take place in San Antonio.
From the 27th to November 8, I will once again
travel to Germany to wrap up research on the
life of Ignaz Pfefferkorn, S.J. I also hope to return
to the Hambidge Center for the Arts and Sciences
to work on the fourth volume of the Pfefferkorn mystery
series.
Events
Past
2008
On
January 11, 2008, I completed and submitted my
entirely rewritten and re-thought mystery novel Sonora
Wind. It will be the second book in the Pfefferkorn
S.J. trilogy, The Storks of La Caridad
the third.
2007
2007:
After the tour of the 18th-century Jesuit missions
in Sonora last January, my next book-related trip
was to Sierra Vista, AZ, for the second annual High
Desert Crimes Book Fair, on March 24. The
trip lasted from the 22nd-27th, since I also
visited friends I had met on previous book tours in
El Paso, Bobi and Jim Majors, and friends met on my
first Sonora Mission tour in October, 2005. I also took
the opportunity to work in the Archive of Ethnohistory
at the University Library at the U. of Arizona,
Tucson, and found many unpublished letters
between 18th-century Jesuit missionaries in the field
and their superior, Francisco Zevallos (Ceballos), in
Mexico City. These I have used in rewriting Sonora
Wind.
April
27-May13 was spent as a Resident at The Hambidge
Center for the Arts and Sciences in the northern
Georgia mountains (part of the Smoky Mountains, really),
finishing my re-edited and rewritten version of the
mystery novel, I'll Come To Thee By Moonlight,
now titled Sonora Moonlight. The book
went to my publisher, Twilight Times Books at the end
of the residency. It will be the foundation of the new
Pfefferkorn, S.J. trilogy, forthcoming sometime
late in 2008.
From
June 26-July 25, my friend and assistant Ralph
Freedman and I traveled and worked in Germany,
collecting more information on Ignaz (Ygnacio) Pfefferkorn,
S.J., for the projected fourth mystery novel. More
about this at the end of the "Sleuthing
for Ignaz" piece.
I
spent the week of August 26-September 1 in Monterrey,
Mexico, where I gave a lecture on "Los Jesuitas
en Sonora" to the Centro de Estudios Guadalupanos.
The talk was well received, and I have been accepted
as honorary member of the Center.
The
annual conference of the writer's group Women Writing
the West took place again on October 18-21
in Colorado Springs. Once again, I enjoyed the beauty
of the setting and the wealth of information from sessions
and panels, and the fruitful and pleasant networking.
November
8 saw me in Albuquerque at the New Mexico Book
Awards Banquet, where I was awarded Finalist
status in two categories: Best Historical Novel and
Best Book on the Southwest. The book: Apache
Lance, Franciscan Cross. I stayed in Albuquerque,
since I was scheduled to lecture on my background research
for Seven Cities of Mud and discoveries
along the way, for a joint meeting of The Friends
of the Coronado State Monument and the Sandoval
County Historical Society in Bernalillo, NM, on November
18. Question-and-answer session was extremely lively,
since those folks certainly know their local history.
On
my return to San Antonio, I gave a similar lecture on
November 20 to Los Vaqueros, the local
chapter of The Westerners, a group dedicated
to study of the history of the Southwest. On Friday
November 27, I gave that lecture to the San
Antonio Historical Association.
In
early December, I finished editing a friend's 300-page
novel.
2006
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One
of my (non-literary) activities at Chama
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On
March 22, 2006, I flew to San Francisco for the
Renaissance Society of America Conference, where I chaired
a session on "obscure" sixteenth-century French poets.
The following Friday (March 24), I flew to Tucson
for the High Desert Crimes Book Festival.
On Monday (March 27), I worked in the Archive
of Ethnohistory at the Arizona State Museum (UAZ) and
found documents written by Ignaz Pfefferkorn's contemporaries,
between 1756 and 1767. The documentation will be extremely
helpful when I start revising Sonora Wind, Ill
Wind and I'll Come To Thee…. I
now have my rights back for those two novels, and will
soon be working on second editions that will include
information I have learned since I wrote the books back
in 2001 and 2002. I'll be revisiting that archive soon,
since holdings are rich!
The Historical Society of New Mexico met from April
21-23, and on that Friday, I presented a learned paper,
"History or Mostly Myth? Caveat lector! Discrepancies
In Scholarly Accounts of the Chamuscado Expedition,
1581-1582." You can read the
paper here. It is a side product of my forthcoming
historical novel, The Seven Cities of Mud,
about the second expedition up the Rio Grande, forty
years after Coronado's. Only nine men, three Franciscan
friars and nine soldiers undertook the entrada; the
three friars were killed, and the captain died of disease.
The remaining soldiers made their report to the Viceroy,
the Conde de Coruña, and the scribe, Hernán Gallegos,
one of the soldiers, petitioned the king, Felipe II,
to be made viceroy of the newly explored territory of
New Mexico. He was nominated, but did not live to assume
his title.
After
a successful and fun weekend in Chama, NM (5.11-14.06)
and after the Women's Global Connection Conference in
San Antonio (5.18-21), I drove to Georgia, where,
in the seclusion and beauty of The Hambidge Center For
the Arts and Sciences, I completed The Seven Cities
of Mud on June 11. I took the future
novel to my editor, Gerald W. Mills, then drove with
friend Ralph Freedman to Mt. Desert Island, Maine, for
a three-week break. During that time, I worked on revising
my first Pfefferkorn mystery, Sonora Wind, Ill
Wind.
In July (7.14-16.2006), I attended the ConMisterio
Conference for mystery writers in Austin, TX, and
participated in two panel discussions. There, I met
Katie Hamilton, a fellow mystery writer and fine novelist
who also runs the Metheglin Press out of Phoenix, AZ
(http://metheglinPress.com).
She does reprints of titles like "Snails, Sex and Sermons
in 1744, Testaceo Theología [by] Friedrich
Christian Lesser, Leipzig, 1744" and "Spells and Incantations
of Yesteryear, attributed to Cagliostro." Katie is a
native of Cologne, Germany, Ignaz' stamping grounds,
and so was extremely helpful in suggesting things to
do and see, places to visit, and antiquities Ignaz would
have known, etc.
In August, I was informed that my book Apache
Lance, Franciscan Cross, had won a literary
award. Women Writing the West recognized it as a WILLA
[Cather] Literary Finalist. I received the award
at the WWW Conference in Colorado Springs in
late October.
I
spent all of September in Germany, continuing my search
for details of the life of Ignaz Pfefferkorn, S.J.,
the hero of my mystery novel series. I'm planning a
fourth mystery set in Germany this time. (See below)
During a mini-book tour from November 6-11, I spoke
at the Historical Society in Carlsbad, NM (11.6.06),
at three branch libraries (11.8.06 and two talks
on 11.11.06) in El Paso, I also spoke about and
read from Apache Lance, Franciscan Cross
at the Inn at Los Patios in San Antonio on 11.17.06.
TOUR
OF 18TH-CENTURY JESUIT MISSIONS IN CENTRAL AND EASTERN
SONORA STATE, MEXICO
Our
tour began on January 3, 2007, from Tucson, Arizona.
We met La Ruta de Sonora's tour organizer, Monica
Durand, early that afternoon, and treated her
and the tour guide, Rene Cordova, to dinner at
the Arizona Inn that night. Rene is a graduate
student at the U. of AZ right now, but already has a
degree in botany from U. of Sonora, and is well versed
in history as well. We got underway early the next morning,
leaving the Mercedes with friends whom we'd met on the
previous Sonora Jesuit Mission tour, a year ago last
October. Rene did all the driving, since he was using
a company van that was high enough to ford Sonora's
rivers.
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San
Ignacio Mission
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Cucurpe
Ruins
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We
entered Sonora through Nogales and saw the return lanes
jammed with cars and trucks backed up for a couple of
miles. There must have been hundreds of vehicles, whose
wait could have been up to four hours. Right then, we
decided NOT to return through that port. We saw San
Ignacio Mission, had lunch in Magdalena de Kino,
and then branched off east to see Cucurpe Mission, the
last one served by Ignaz Pfefferkorn before he
was arrested and expelled in 1767. Landscape on the
way was beautiful, sometimes breathtakingly grandiose.
The San Miguel River Valley, where Cucurpe is located,
is fertile and peaceful, and I can see how Ignaz would
feel more at home there. The ruin with its imposing
brick arches is Franciscan, however. Ignaz' church
was a 'hall church' built of sun-dried adobe, probably
with a mesquite beam ceiling, probably the ruin we see
behind the arches. It was closed so we couldn't see
inside. A Franciscan describes it as well preserved
and well appointed in 1772 when he visited there. After
snapping photos of the ruins and the landscape, we backtracked
and went down to Hermosillo, where we spent the night.
Next
day, we toured in Hermosillo and met Dr. Franz Wicker,
a German prof. at La Universidad de Sonora, who is an
expert in 18th-century Jesuits. We had a rapid, lively
conversation in English, Spanish, and German, and I
learned a number of things, but I already knew much
that he was telling me. He did provide the name
of the Procurator of Jesuit Missions in Nuremberg, Father
Biedenmann, who he thought might help find Ignaz'
third volume (the one recounting his personal experiences
that was never published and since lost). We got away
from Hermosillo at 3:00 pm, arrived at Ures Mission
before sundown, and spent a good deal of time inspecting
and touring it. It has been totally rebuilt by the Franciscans
and is comparable to San Xavier del Bac near
Tucson, but leaves little of the original structure.
We then proceeded through the precipitous Sonora River
Gorge and on upriver to Banámichi, where we were
greeted with a gourmet dinner and delightful conversation
with the host and hostess of the Posada del Rio Sonora.
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Arroyo
Arispe
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Arispe
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Arispe
Interior
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The
most impressive of the Jesuit mission churches came
next day, farther upriver at Arispe, where Carlos
Rojas, S.J. served for 14 years and built a magnificent
stone church. His name is incised on the facade along
with various symbols, including sun and moon, and pillars
where saints' statues were once attached. Inside, the
lofty ceiling is beamed with carved mesquite (I still
can't quite imagine mesquite trees that big), and the
retablos in the transepts are both originals, ca. 1720's.
I found Rojas' church especially moving. We proceeded
from there downriver again, visiting missions on the
way, and I heard Vigil Mass in the church in Aconchi,
where a larger-than-life crucifix adorns the main retablo,
the Corpus carved in obsidian--a coal black Christ.
Impressive. We spent Saturday night back at the posada
in Banámichi.
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Aconchi
Black Christ
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Ospura
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We
set out eastward next day to cross the next range of
mountains to Oposura (now Moctezuma) that was
the R&R mission for exhausted and sick Jesuit missionaries
in the 18th century. Ignaz spent some time there between
his failed stint in Guevavi (now in Tumacacori
National Park in Arizona) and his move to Cucurpe.
That, too, was a stunning and very large church, with
a black, peaked beam ceiling supported by great black
wooden arches. Little of the original furnishings are
left, however, except for a gorgeous baroque retablo
in the west transept.
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Ospura
Exterior
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Ospura
Interior
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The
final jewel was Cuquiárachi, a small mission
on the outer fringe of the Jesuit settlement. Our guide,
who up to then knew literally EVERYTHING about the missions,
native plants and animals, and native arts and crafts,
knew nothing about this mission and had never seen it.
We went through Fronteras, now a town and once
the presidio protecting Cuquiárachi, and got
directions on how to reach the mission. The dirt
road seemed to go on forever, when we 'just happened'
to find a likely-looking ranch where we stopped to inquire
where the mission might be. Two teen-age girls met us
and we showed them a picture of the mission as it had
appeared in 1948 or so. They immediately ran to call
their mother, a handsome youngish woman who was amazed
by the picture. "I'll be glad to guide you the
rest of the way," she said, "since I'm the
'encargada de las llaves'--the keeper of the keys."
We loaded her and the two girls in the van and drove
to the mission, now a tiny town. That church is almost
unaltered since Jesuit times, although it has been re-floored,
re-roofed, and re-painted white outside and in. The
adobe walls are three feet or more thick. I was most
moved by the simplicity of that little church, re-living
the sacrifices and hardships it had witnessed. Outside,
two of the houses immediately in front and to the left
side of the church, also with three-foot-thick walls
and buttresses, were part of the original defensive
plaza around the mission precinct--probably, originally, the
priest's house and rectory.
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Cuquiárachi
Exterior
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Cuquiárachi
Interior
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Cuquiárachi
Explorers
After
we took the 'encargada' and her daughters back to
their ranch, we returned to Fronteras and, after another
hour's drive, crossed the border at Agua Prieta/Douglas
with no delay and drove on to Tucson.

Father
Tom Steele, S.J., said his tour of the western missions
was "the most moving experience of his life."
I suspect that was an exaggeration, but I felt much
the same way in many of those churches. The very air
vibrates with the hopes, fears, joys, terrors and consolations
of those long-ago times when those Jesuit missionaries
gave everything they had for the greater glory of God.
Read:
Sleuthing for Ignaz
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